I had visited the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia on several occasions previously for business. Riyadh is a modern, cosmopolitan capital with glass towers and busy streets, now ranking as the 40th most visited city globally. It is vibrant and engaging but gives little hint of what can be found outside the city – what sights and experiences are waiting in the country’s untouched corners. Despite 200,000 years of human habitation, the secrets of 21st-century Saudi Arabia have been kept for those who live there – until now.
In 2019, the Kingdom issued its first visas for non-religious tourism, attracting over 17.5 million international visitors by 2022. This marked a turning point as a vision for leisure travel began to emerge. Among several Saudi regions opening their doors to global tourism was AlUla, an area of natural wonders and archaeological sites in the Kingdom’s northwest corner.
Saudi Vision 2030: A Transformative Journey
Under the guidance of the Royal Commission for AlUla and in line with Saudi Vision 2030, the Journey Through Time Masterplan was created. This ambitious $15 billion project declared it would deliver five districts in and around AlUla by 2035, with a mission to protect, preserve and sustainably rejuvenate each, as they opened up to the wider world. The plan includes creating 38,000 new jobs and increasing the area’s GDP by 120%.
It detailed how this mesmerising place should be shared but not spoiled.
Last month, I was fortunate to visit AlUla. From the moment we touched down, the only aircraft in an airport surrounded by spectacular terrain as far as the eye could see, I knew I had arrived in a special place. As an experienced traveller, I was also immediately aware of the challenges to be faced as its popularity grew. During my stay, I was inspired by what was being done, and the opportunities ahead.
If Saudi can learn from the past and avoid mistakes made in other tourist hot-spots around the world, where over-tourism has become an increasing problem, perhaps AlUla can become an icon of Arabian travel without losing its authenticity. There is the potential here to create truly sustainable tourism in Saudi Arabia; to showcase culture without compromising it for commercialism. To tell a story that isn’t lost in the act of its translation.
Attractions That Date Back Millennia
The treasures of AlUla go far beyond the humbling beauty of its timeless and boundless scenery. Hegra, Saudi’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site, takes your breath away. A former Nabataean settlement linked to Petra in Jordan, it’s now a living museum with more than 100 rock-cut tombs set among stunning natural rock formations. These ancient engineering marvels span over 2,000 years of history, with inscriptions dating back to the 1st century BCE.
The ‘open-air library’ of Dadan and Jabal Ikmah boasts over 450 ancient inscriptions and is believed to hold the Earth’s largest concentration of Dadanitic and Lihyanite inscriptions, the building blocks of the modern Arabic language, etched into the rocks more than 2,500 years ago.
AlUla Old Town is a window into the 12th century, where 14 gates surround a warren of alleys, winding between mud-brick houses and overlooked by a 45-metre-high fort. This architectural marvel spans 1,300 years of continuous human habitation.The Ashar Valley is home to Maraya, a monument to the possibilities of the future. Covered in 9,740 reflective glass panels, this record-breaking architectural revelation is an event space and concert hall that mirrors 8,000 square meters of surrounding desert
landscape. It appears as a shimmering illusion, simultaneously in harmony and at odds with its environment.
An Enthusiastic Welcome
But what lifted my heart most about AlUla were the warm, enthusiastic interactions I had with every young local I met, male and female. As part of Vision 2030’s commitment to Saudi youth, over 70% of the local workforce in AlUla’s tourism sector is under 35 years old. Whether in the hotels, in the tiny mud-brick shops of the Old Town, or while being driven around Al Ula, their welcome felt warm and genuine. With gentle respect and impeccable English, they showed their pride in sharing their heritage.
“How do you feel about AlUla opening up to the world?” I asked one young man, and his answer was simple. “Very happy,” he said. “Because we can finally show the world what we have here.”
With this generation of young professionals bridging the connection between Saudi Arabia and the international community, it’s easy to feel positive about the potential of this new cultural exchange.
Sympathetic Design
The hotels also displayed an uplifting awareness of the need to work with the traditions and terrain of AlUla. In the Ashar Valley, Banyan Tree infuses its renowned luxury into tented villas using sand-tinted canvas, camouflaged like dunes against the backdrop of the breathtaking sandstone canyons. This eco-conscious resort reduces water consumption by 30% through innovative recycling systems.
Close by, Our Habitas comprises single-story wooden villas, sheltered on the canyon floor, towered over by rocks which have stood for an aeon. With a carbon-neutral footprint, this development represents sustainable luxury at its finest. There is consideration for the landscape that I appreciate, as will the many venturing historians who come to visit.
On the edge of Hegra, The Chedi is housed in the former Hegra railway station with the original outbuildings carefully restored, bringing the past back to life gracefully and sensitively. As an increasing number of global hospitality brands find their way into the AlUla landscape, it is important these philosophies are maintained, so the cost of increasing footfall is never measured in concrete blocks against the sky.
Integral Authenticity
For me, this also speaks to the qualities of AlUla which left me so inspired, enthusiastic and enchanted. Authenticity, integrity, respect for what has gone before, and appreciation for the region’s past as well as the natural, dramatic landscapes, are what make this place special. The Royal Commission maintains that no more than 2% of AlUla’s total area will be developed, ensuring that 98% remains preserved in its natural state.
I am grateful to have experienced it now, in its unspoiled state.
What happens next will have a huge impact on what AlUla becomes in the future. The destination aims to welcome 2 million visitors annually by 2035, contributing SAR 32 billion to the Kingdom’s GDP while maintaining strict environmental standards.
Naturally, the PR-pundits and marketeers will turn to 21st century marketing; initiatives involving social media influencers are already taking place. But, however it chooses to connect with the world, AlUla’s key strategy must be to continue reflecting the authentic image of the region.
Shared Responsibility
In my eyes, as a luxury travel, tourism and hospitality advisor – and a seasoned traveller for over 35 years, who has witnessed first-hand what makes destinations succeed, not just in the short term but as the world evolves – AlUla and Saudi Arabia stand on the brink of thrilling and unprecedented opportunities. The tourism sector alone is projected to contribute 10% to Saudi Arabia’s GDP by 2030, up from 3% in 2016.
As an individual, I encourage you to experience this burgeoning natural wonder and living museum for yourself as soon as possible, and to be discerning when you do, rewarding those who are standing firm to keep its authenticity alive.
